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I first crossed Turkey by land years ago, starting in the familiar Aegean port of İzmir and ending weeks later near the Armenian border.
The change in scenery, culture, and food was staggering.
This guide is for anyone considering a similar trip, specifically backpacking Turkey west to east.
My goal is to give you the practical, on-the-ground information I wish I had. We’ll cover safety for solo travelers, the best ways to get around, and what to expect from the lesser-seen eastern regions.
Your Guide to Backpacking Turkey West to East
This route is more than just a trip; it’s a cross-section of a huge and varied country.
You move from Mediterranean ease to Anatolian highlands and finally to the rugged, historic southeast. Planning is key, but so is flexibility.
💡The Golden Rule: Go Slow
Turkey is massive, and the distances are real. Trying to rush a west-to-east crossing will only lead to burnout. Give yourself at least 3-4 weeks to do it properly. This allows for spontaneous stops and rest days.
Is Turkey Safe for a Solo Female Backpacker?
Yes, Turkey remains a safe and rewarding destination for a solo female backpacker in 2025, provided you take standard precautions.
The US State Department currently maintains a Level 2 “Exercise Increased Caution” advisory for Turkey, with specific warnings only for eastern border regions near Syria and Iraq.
Turkish people are incredibly hospitable, but cultural norms, especially in more conservative areas, are different from those in Western Europe.
Be mindful of your dress, particularly when moving east and visiting religious sites. Act confidently, be aware of your surroundings, and trust your intuition.
Violent crime against tourists remains low, but petty theft or unwanted attention can occur, as in any country. Turkey welcomed over 57 million tourists in 2024, making it the world’s fourth most visited destination.
Turkish hospitality is famous for a reason, people want to help.
The country has excellent and safe public transportation with modern QR code payment systems.
In tourist areas, you’ll meet many other travelers.
Local women are often curious and friendly if you initiate contact.
Dress modestly in conservative areas, carry a scarf.
Avoid walking alone late at night in unfamiliar neighborhoods.
Be firm and direct if you receive unwanted attention.
Share your itinerary with someone back home and stay connected via mobile apps.
How to Travel Across Turkey by Land?
Traveling across Turkey by land is efficient and affordable, thanks to a world-class long-distance bus network.
Buses are the backbone of Turkish travel, connecting every major city and most towns with comfortable, modern coaches.
Trains are a scenic but slower alternative on specific routes, with the official Turkish Tourism Authority promoting both options for sustainable travel.
For shorter distances and local travel, you’ll rely on dolmuş (shared minibus taxis) that operate on fixed routes.
This is the primary way I navigated between smaller towns and attractions. Most transport now accepts contactless payments and QR codes alongside traditional cash.
These are modern coaches, think comfy seats and onboard service.
Companies like Kamil Koç and Pamukkale Turizm are very reliable.
Book tickets at the bus station (otogar) a day ahead or online via apps like BiletAll.
Overnight buses are a great way to save time and money (around 400-2,500 TL depending on distance).
More scenic and relaxing than buses, but the network is limited.
The Doğu Ekspresi from Ankara to Kars is an epic ride – book via TCDD official website.
Sleepers are comfortable and a good choice for long distances (Istanbul-Ankara from €23).
Book well ahead, especially for popular routes like the Doğu – tickets go on sale 30 days prior.
These are minibuses running set routes within and between towns.
You pay the driver in cash or contactless (around 15-30 TL for short routes).
They are super cheap and how locals get around.
Just flag one down from the side of the road!
A Suggested Itinerary for Backpacking Turkey West to East
This is a framework, not a rigid plan. Feel free to linger where you like and skip what doesn’t interest you.
This path gives a great taste of the country’s diversity.
Stage 1: The Aegean Gateway (İzmir & Surrounds)
Start in İzmir. It’s a relaxed, liberal city with great transport links.
Use it as a base to see ancient sites like Ephesus and Pergamon. The vibe here is distinctly Mediterranean.
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Ephesus Ancient City
Roman ruins. (Entry: €40, includes new Experience Museum). Go early in the morning to avoid crowds and heat. The Library of Celsus is a must-see. Open 8:00-18:15 daily.
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Kemeraltı Market
Historic Bazaar. (Free to enter). Get lost in the alleys, drink Turkish coffee, and feel the city’s pulse. A great place for lunch. Most vendors now accept QR code payments.
Stage 2: The Heart of Anatolia (Cappadocia)
From the coast, head inland. The main event here is Cappadocia.
The landscape of fairy chimneys and rock-cut churches is like another planet. I spent four days here and could have stayed longer.
While the balloons are famous, the real magic for me was hiking through the valleys.
This is the best way to see Cappadocia’s strange formations up close.
The trails are well-marked and you can walk for hours.
Start in one valley and loop back through another for a great day.
Pack water and sunscreen, there is very little shade! Download offline maps on your phone.
A mind-bending look at a huge subterranean settlement.
Entry is around 1,260 TL (approximately €30), go with a guide to understand it all.
It’s a tight squeeze in some tunnels, not for the claustrophobic.
Shows the incredible ingenuity of ancient people hiding from invaders.
Stage 3: The Southeast Frontier (Gaziantep to Van)
This is where your backpacking Turkey west to east trip becomes a real adventure. The food in Gaziantep alone is worth the bus ride.
As you move further east towards Van, the landscape becomes more dramatic and the Kurdish culture more prominent. This region felt like a different country.
🌍Hidden Gem: Kapuzbaşı Waterfalls
Near Kayseri, on the way to the southeast, I took a detour to see the Kapuzbaşı Waterfalls. They pour straight out of a cliff face. It was one of the most stunning natural sights I saw in all of Turkey, and there were barely any foreign tourists. You’ll need to arrange a car or local tour, but it’s completely worth it.
What is Eastern Turkey Like for Tourists?
Eastern Turkey is incredible for tourists who are independent and curious.
It is less developed for tourism than the west coast, meaning fewer crowds, more authentic interactions, and lower prices due to the Turkish Lira’s current exchange rate (around 42 TL per USD in October 2025).
You will find comfortable hotels and guesthouses, but perhaps fewer hostels.
The highlights are historical and natural: the ancient statues at Nemrut Dağı UNESCO World Heritage Site, the island church on Lake Van, and the stunning Ishak Pasha Palace near Doğubayazıt.
English is less common, so having a translation app is very helpful. People are exceptionally welcoming. Note that US travelers should check current advisories as some eastern provinces have specific travel recommendations.
A beautifully restored old caravanserai, very atmospheric. The central courtyard is a great place to relax. Rooms are comfortable, blending history with modern needs including Wi-Fi and contactless check-in. Perfect location for walking to the castle and bazaars.
A solid, modern hotel right in the middle of Van city. Clean, comfortable, and has a fantastic breakfast spread. The staff here helped me arrange a trip to Akdamar Island and accept digital payments. Great value and a reliable base for eastern explorations.
What to Expect Traveling Turkey in November?
Traveling in Turkey in November means fewer crowds and lower prices, but be prepared for mixed weather.
The south coast can still be pleasant, but central and eastern Anatolia will be cold, with a chance of snow in the mountains. It’s a trade-off I found worthwhile for the quiet sites.
Pack layers: a t-shirt, a fleece, and a waterproof/windproof jacket are essential. Many seasonal tourist activities may be closed, but major museums and sites remain open with extended winter hours (8:30-17:00 for most sites).
It’s a great time for city-based activities and enjoying cozy cafes with free Wi-Fi for digital nomads.
- Pro: Fewer PeopleEnjoy major sites like Ephesus or Cappadocia almost to yourself. Big Plus. Better photos, no queues.
- Con: Colder WeatherCentral/East will be cold. Expect lows near freezing. Pack Warm. Hiking is still great if dressed properly.
- Pro: Lower PricesFlights and accommodation are noticeably cheaper in the shoulder season due to weak Turkish Lira. Save Money. More budget for food!
- Con: Shorter DaysThe sun sets early, giving you less daylight for sightseeing. Plan Ahead. Start your days early.
Resources For Your Journey
Planning is half the fun. These are the official sources I use to check schedules and book tickets.
For buses, it’s often easiest to buy in person at the bus station, but these sites are great for planning.
Most now offer mobile apps with QR code ticket integration.
- Bus Tickets: oBilet or BiletAll are reliable sites for checking bus times and booking.
- Trains: TCDD Taşımacılık is the official Turkish State Railways website with mobile app (EYBIS).
- Flights: Use Skyscanner to compare domestic flights on Turkish Airlines or Pegasus.
- Visas: Check current requirements at official Turkish e-Visa portal run by Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
FAQs: Your Questions on Backpacking Turkey West to East
What is the budget for backpacking Turkey?
Turkey is very budget-friendly due to the weak Turkish Lira (42 TL = 1 USD as of October 2025). A backpacker can comfortably manage on €25-€35 per day. This covers a hostel dorm, food from local restaurants, public transport, and some site entry fees. Prices are especially good outside Istanbul.
Do I need a visa for Turkey?
This depends on your nationality. Many European citizens can enter visa-free for 90 days. US, Canadian, and Australian citizens typically need an e-Visa, which is easy to get online before you travel. Always check the latest rules on the official Turkish e-Visa website run by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
Is it easy to find hostels in Eastern Turkey?
Hostels are common in places like İzmir, Fethiye, and Cappadocia. In the east, they are much rarer. You’ll more likely stay in budget-friendly hotels or “pansiyons” (guesthouses), which are still very affordable, typically €20-40 per night with the current exchange rates.
What is the best time of year for this trip?
Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) offer the best balance of pleasant weather across the entire country. Summer can be extremely hot, especially in the southeast, while winter in the east is very cold with heavy snow. November can work but requires warm clothing.
Will I have a problem with the language barrier?
In major tourist areas like İzmir and Cappadocia, you can get by with English. However, in smaller towns and especially in the east, English is not widely spoken. I recommend learning a few basic Turkish phrases (“Merhaba,” “Teşekkür ederim”) and having a translation app on your phone. Many young Turks speak some English.
How much time should I plan for a west-to-east trip?
I strongly suggest a minimum of three weeks. Four weeks is even better as it allows for a more relaxed pace and unexpected detours. The distances are huge, and rushing the trip will cause you to miss out on the best experiences. The Doğu Express train alone takes 24-30 hours.
What is the single best way to travel long distances?
For flexibility, frequency, and coverage, the long-distance bus network is unbeatable in Turkey. The coaches are modern, comfortable, and connect nearly every town. Companies like Kamil Koç and Pamukkale offer excellent service. While the Doğu Ekspresi train is a fantastic experience, buses are the most practical workhorse for a cross-country trip.
Is the food really that different in Eastern Turkey?
Yes, dramatically. The Aegean coast features olive oil, fresh vegetables, and seafood. As you move into Anatolia, it becomes more about grains and meat. The southeast, especially Gaziantep, is a culinary capital known for its rich, spicy kebabs, baklava, and pistachio dishes. It’s a highlight of the trip and very affordable with current exchange rates.