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Ciao fellow travelers! Musa here. If you’re dreaming of cobblestone streets, vibrant piazzas, and food that touches your soul, then Trastevere in Rome is calling. This charming neighborhood isn’t just picturesque; it’s a haven for authentic Roman cuisine.
My Trastevere food guide is born from many delicious visits (and discover why Trastevere is a great area to stay!), from bustling pizzerias to hidden trattorias.
If you’re planning your overall Roman adventure, especially for a first visit, you might also find our general guide for a first time in Rome helpful.
My Insider’s Trastevere Food Guide: How to Eat Like a Local
Trastevere, with its ivy-clad buildings and lively atmosphere, offers a taste of Roman life that’s both historic and wonderfully present. It’s a place where laundry flutters above narrow lanes and the scent of simmering sauces fills the air. This guide is about sharing my personal finds and tips, helping you navigate the choices and truly connect with the local food culture.
💡Musa’s Trastevere Vibe Check
Trastevere comes alive at night! While mornings are peaceful for a stroll, the real magic for diners happens after sunset. Expect a bustling, energetic scene, especially on weekends. It’s all part of the charm!
Musa’s Top Tables: Best Restaurants in Trastevere
Over my trips, I’ve collected some truly special food memories. These are the places that I dream about and recommend to anyone wanting to experience the best of Trastevere’s food scene.
Ai Marmi (Pizzeria Panattoni)
When I first sought out classic Roman pizza in Trastevere, Ai Marmi was a name I kept hearing. It’s a no-frills institution, famous for its super-thin, crispy Tonda Romana pizzas.
My server was quite direct, almost comically so, but the pizza, hot from the wood-fired oven, was exceptional. It’s an experience where the food takes center stage. Locals call it “l’obitorio” (the morgue) due to its marble-topped tables – a quirky detail I love!
A true Roman pizzeria experience. The focus is on the authentic, crispy pizza and lively atmosphere. Prices are generally reasonable, around €15 per person.
Ivo a Trastevere
Another Trastevere classic, Ivo is often lauded for its pizza, which is indeed very good – that same Tonda Romana style. However, on one visit, their Carbonara absolutely captivated me.
On another, the Gricia was simply divine, possibly the best I’ve ever had. It taught me that some spots shine brightest beyond their headline act.
My experience: While the pizza is good, the Carbonara or Gricia here are truly special. Rich, flavorful, and perfectly executed Roman classics.
Address: Via di San Francesco a Ripa, 158. Official Website.
Hours: ~6:00 PM – 12:00 AM (Closed Tue). Reservations accepted via phone.
L’Elementare Trastevere
For a more contemporary spin on Roman pizza, L’Elementare was a fantastic discovery. Their pizzas are artisanal, with creative toppings and a clear focus on dough quality. They also boast a great selection of craft beers. But the standout for me? Their Ajo e Olio supplì – these fried rice balls were unbelievably good, a must-try.
🌍L’Elementare: Modern Roman Pizza & More
This spot offers a fresh take on pizza with high-quality ingredients. Their Ajo e Olio supplì (fried rice balls) were a revelation – expect to pay a few euros for them, and they’re worth every cent! Pizzas are reasonably priced too.
Musa’s Note: Great for craft beer lovers too. Verify current hours and details as it’s a bit newer on the scene.
Da Enzo al 29
This place is legendary, and the queue outside always confirms it! I learned quickly: arrive at least 30 minutes before they open. The Carbonara I had here was sublime, truly an emotional experience.
It’s pure Roman pasta perfection. The atmosphere is buzzing in this tiny spot. If artichokes are in season, their fried version (Carciofi alla Giudia) is also a must.
Prices are a bit above the Trastevere average, but the quality is undeniable. This is a cornerstone of Roman food in Trastevere.
Roma Sparita
Thanks to Anthony Bourdain, Roma Sparita was high on my list. Their Cacio e Pepe, served in an edible Parmesan bowl, is iconic. I can confirm: it absolutely lives up to the hype. I’d genuinely consider a trip back to Rome just for this dish! Reservations are absolutely essential here; I booked well in advance.
🌍Roma Sparita: The Famous Cacio e Pepe
The star here is undoubtedly the Cacio e Pepe served in a Parmesan cheese bowl (approx. €14-€16). It’s a dish that has rightfully earned its fame. The experience is memorable.
Address: Piazza di Santa Cecilia, 24. Hours: Typically Daily 12-3 PM & 7-11 PM. Reservations: Essential, book ahead! Call them or try to book in person.
Spirito di Vino
For a truly special meal, I booked at Spirito di Vino. This Slow Food recognized restaurant offers Roman cuisine with a refined, creative touch. The highlight for me was their wine cellar – our host explained it predates the Colosseum (reportedly from 160 B.C.)! It was an upscale, memorable experience.
My view: A splurge, but justified for the quality, history, and unique cellar. Reservations highly recommended. Hours: Tue-Sun ~7:30 PM – 11:00 PM.
Quick Bites & Local Haunts
Trastevere isn’t just about long dinners. Here are a couple of my go-to spots for quicker, equally authentic tastes:
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Bar San Calisto
My morning ritual became a stop here for a proper Roman breakfast. A cappuccino, which cost me about €1.50, and a sweet maritozzo or classic cornetto for around €1.00–€2.00 was perfect. In the evenings, the square outside is great for a cheap Peroni beer (a large one was €2.50) and people-watching. It’s not fancy, but so authentically Roman.
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Forno Renella (Via del Moro)
This is an excellent bakery and pizzeria al taglio. Their Pizza Bianca con Patate e Carciofi (white pizza with potato and artichoke) was a standout slice for me, costing around €3–€4. Perfect for a quick, delicious bite. Usually open from morning till evening, around 7:00 AM to 8:00 PM.
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Rione 13
One of my most memorable meals in Trastevere was at Rione 13. The supplì here were some of the best, around €3–€4 each. I had a truly outstanding truffle carbonara (approx. €14–€16) and a lemon & ricotta pasta that I still dream about (around €12–€14). A less hyped spot but with amazing quality food. Typically open for lunch and dinner, around 12:00 PM – 3:00 PM & 7:00 PM – 11:00 PM.
Mastering Roman Food in Trastevere: Key Dishes & Styles
To truly enjoy your Trastevere food journey, it helps to know a bit about what you’re ordering!
Essential Tips to Eat in Trastevere Like a Pro
Navigating the dining scene in Trastevere can be part of the fun. Here are some of my tried-and-tested strategies.
Looking for more local gems?
Trastevere Rome: Beyond the Hype – Finding Your Perfect Meal
Trastevere is popular, and that means some places get very crowded. It’s wise to understand the scene.
Don’t be afraid to explore a little further! Testaccio, a short walk or taxi, has an incredible market and spots like Flavio Al Velavevodetto. The Jewish Ghetto is also close, famous for Carciofi alla Giudia at places like Nonna Betta.
Considering a Trastevere Food Tour?
If you want a guided experience, food tours can be a great way to sample a lot and learn from a local.
- Eating Europe – Twilight Trastevere Tour:Around €126 per person. Includes substantial food/wine. Visits spots like Da Enzo, Spirito di Vino. More Info.
- Sophie Minchilli Food Tour:Previously around €150 per person (verify current). Personalized, in-depth exploration of Roman cuisine.
FAQs: Your Questions on Trastevere Food
I hope this guide helps you savor every bite of your Trastevere adventure! Buon Appetito!
What is the best area to eat in Trastevere?
The entire neighborhood is packed with great options! Piazza di San Cosimato and its surrounding streets are bustling. Via della Lungaretta is popular, but explore the quieter side streets for hidden gems. My guide covers some of the best restaurants Trastevere offers, scattered throughout.
Is Trastevere expensive for food?
You can find options for all budgets. A slice of pizza from a forno or a simple pasta can be very affordable. My experience at Bar San Calisto shows how cheap a local breakfast can be. Places like Da Enzo are mid-range, while Spirito di Vino is more of a splurge. This Trastevere food guide highlights various price points.
What is Trastevere known for food-wise?
Trastevere is a hotspot for classic Roman food Trastevere style. This means incredible pastas like Carbonara and Cacio e Pepe, thin-crust Roman pizzas (Tonda Romana), delicious supplì (fried rice balls), and seasonal delights like fried artichokes.
Do I need reservations to eat in Trastevere?
For some popular spots like Roma Sparita or Spirito di Vino, yes, absolutely. For many traditional pizzerias like Ai Marmi or legendary trattorias like Da Enzo al 29, they don’t take them, so be prepared to queue or arrive early. It’s always best to check for each specific restaurant.
What time do Romans usually eat dinner in Trastevere?
Romans tend to eat dinner later than many other cultures. While some places open earlier for tourists, you’ll find the local crowd starting to fill restaurants around 8:30 PM or 9:00 PM, especially on weekends. If you prefer a quieter meal, aim for an earlier seating.
Are there good vegetarian options when I eat in Trastevere?
Yes, definitely! Many classic Roman pastas are vegetarian. Think Cacio e Pepe (cheese and pepper), or pasta with simple tomato sauce (pomodoro). Pizzas like Margherita are great, and look for vegetable side dishes (contorni) like cicoria (chicory) or fried artichokes when in season.
What is the tipping etiquette in Trastevere restaurants?
Tipping isn’t obligatory in Italy as service is often included (servizio incluso). However, if you’ve had particularly good service, leaving a few extra euros or rounding up the bill is a nice gesture and appreciated. It’s not expected like in some other countries.
Can I find good street food in Trastevere Rome?
Absolutely! Supplì are a classic Roman street food you’ll find in many pizzerias al taglio (pizza by the slice shops) or friggitorie (fried food shops). Grabbing a slice of pizza bianca from a forno (bakery) like Forno Renella is another delicious and quick option.
Is Trastevere safe for dining out at night?
Trastevere is generally a very safe neighborhood, and it’s particularly lively and well-populated in the evenings due to its dining scene. As with any busy area, be aware of your surroundings and belongings, but I’ve always felt comfortable exploring and dining here after dark.